By Nemari Morales

Upon the intersection of North Franklin and East Walnut Street, Our Momma’s Kitchen, a recently established and family owned soul-food restaurant has captured the hearts of many locals. 

Aside from the unique options the restaurant offers in comparison to other places in the area, the aura is important to recognize. Everyone who comes in is greeted with a smiling face and a warm tone, accompanied by food that embodies the spirit of a mothers cooking. During my initial visit, I was greeted by the brother of the owner, Lenore Johnson. He informed me that the owner would likely be out soon, and I was approached by another younger looking woman with blonde braids and a hairnet, who greeted me and sat down at the table. I explained to her that I was looking for a friend’s grandmother, the owner, as I was going to interview her. She allowed me to explain everything before nodding and surprising me with her next sentence: “Well, I’m Biggie’s grandma. It’s nice to meet you.”

Lenore Johnson, more commonly known as Loni, takes upon various roles in the restaurant. Not only is she the owner, but the primary chef. She was eating her dinner, and offered me a cup of the restaurant’s complimentary cucumber water, which was very refreshing. We delved right into things, discussing how the restaurant came to be, and if it was what she had always imagined. She explained that she already had a background as a caterer, but didn’t necessarily want a restaurant. “I was originally afraid of a building. I wanted a truck, but my broker offered me this deal, and I couldn’t refuse.” 

She certainly made the right decision; the building offered a cozy, diner-like atmosphere. Everything seemed to be put in place for the reason of comfort and appeasing the guests, as opposed to convenience. According to Lenore, this was purely intentional. “When we got the place and started setting up, I said I wanted this color[red]. People would shy away, and I would say that I don’t really care what they thought because it’s my place. When I bought these curtains, people told me to get more commercial restaurant type curtains. I told them no, because I wanted to get home curtains and make this place feel like home.” Lenore was able to achieve her goal of creating a safe space for anybody to come, but this prompted another question. Why is this so important to her?

Achieving this goal of owning a restaurant wasn’t at all easy for Lenore and her family. When asked about the journey, she stated, “I came here about 30 years ago with 2 trash bags, 6 kids, and went right to a shelter. It was a struggle.” She speaks about moving from Philadelphia, fearing that her environment was no longer safe to raise children in. She describes her past work experience, finding jobs to make ends meet such as catering for Blazin’ J’s and other restaurants. After finding a place to stay, her natural caring personality made her a magnet for other struggling people to come and receive assistance. “My kids would bring kids home,” Lenore said with a chuckle. “I’m always taking care of people. Sometimes I feel like I give too much of myself, but I don’t know how to stop. I grew up seeing my mother and my family, always giving.”

Eventually, she found the Boys and Girls Club of Lancaster, being recognized by the city for her cooking talent. When asked if she always had a passion for cooking, Lenore responded with, “Always. My elders cooked, my aunt Joanne cooked, my mom cooked, and I cook. My kids are mandated, once a week, to come to a gathering with me. There’s always food.” She doesn’t just use this skill to market, though. Lenore is a generous person, always donating and helping wherever she can. In fact, she does so in the streets of Lancaster! “When I have extra, I feel like I have to give. I feed the homeless a lot. The only reason I stopped is because the police stopped me.”

Lenore seemed to be fixated on improvement, opening the restaurant after years of planning. Yet, looking around the room, I noticed a wall of pictures she called “the family wall”. She spoke about one photo specifically of a man holding a child that I didn’t recognize. “That’s my husband. He died two years ago. He was helping me plan for the place and everything.”

Around this time in our interview, Lenore stopped me to offer me a plate. Of course, I couldn’t deny, and she served me a plate of Mac & Cheese, Rice, Jerk Chicken, and Collard Greens. I personally can’t handle spice, but the flavor of the food was too good for me to try and stop eating. My personal favorite on the plate was the Mac & Cheese, which she said was one of the most commonly ordered sides with yams, collard greens, and potato salad. When asked about the recipe for the Mac & Cheese, she gave me a surprising fact.

“It costs me about $60 to make a full tray of Mac & Cheese. I don’t use those mixes that other restaurants do. I buy all types of cheese. I shred it, and I have to find the perfect mix of seasonings to put in it.” The flavor of the food definitely represented her passion and care for the craft. I commented on how much work it must be for her, but she disagreed. “I love cooking. I don’t have a favorite dish to cook, I just like cooking.”

Overall, Our Momma’s Kitchen is definitely one of my favorite places to visit in Lancaster now, and visiting this place to try out a dish should definitely be on your bucket list – after all, they don’t discriminate.